HAIR TODAY, GONE TOMORROW:
HAIR Finding a Good Shampoo
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While it’s impossible to know the
proportion of the ingredients listed in a label, a good rule of
thumb
is the more ingredients listed, the better the shampoo. That’s because there’s
only 3
categories of ingredients in a shampoo: cleansers, stabilizers,
and conditioners. If there’s
25 ingredients listed, chances are the
product has a sophisticated mixture of more than one
of each agent,
which increases the odds that the product will leave your hair soft and
manageable. And you’ll know after the first use whether the product suits
your hair.
To help you decide which combo of ingredients you want in a
conditioning shampoo, here’s
a list:
1. Proteins – amino acids,
hydrolyzed proteins, keratin. (Eggs contain a protein that hair
CANNOT absorb and adds no value to a product other than as a marketing
tool.) This is
good for the hair shaft. Nexxus Therappe, Revlon’s Flex
Body Building Protein Shampoo,
Revlon’s Milk Plus 6, Redmond’s Asuuie
Mega Shampoo, Jhirmack’s Lite Frequent Use
Shampoo.
2. Milk –
for its protein, not for its fat. Good for split ends or damaged hair. Revlon’s
Milk Plus
6.
3. Balsam – excellent when combined with proteins.
Adds volume by coating the shaft.
Revlon’s Flex Body Building Protein
Shampoo.
4. Vitamins – Panthenol found in B5 is absorbed into the shaft
and helps strengthen it.
5. Moisturizers – lactic acid, lecithin, urea.
Especially helpful for dry or over-colored hair.
Revlon’s Milk Plus 6,
Jhirmack’s Gelave.
6. Oils and waxes – avocado oil, coconut oil,
wheat-germ oil. Provide a coating to retard
water evaporation and the
coat makes the hair look shiny and smooth. Beeswax and
spermaceti also
protect against water evaporation but aren’t as oily as the other
oils.
7. Lemon – citric juice. Good way to strip accumulated oils and
dirt for oily hair. Neitrogena
Shampoo, Redmond’s Australian Hair
Citrifier. You can also use a real lemon.
8. Allantoin – from the comfrey
root. Good conditioner, increases the shaft’s water retention,
is
antidandruff, dissolves excess kerotin on the scalp or shaft. Nexxus’s
Therappe.
9. Silk – coats the shaft and make it more reflective, and thus
look shinier. Jhirmak’s Gelave,
Alberto Natural Silk, Reinforcer’s Aqua
Silk Shampoo.
10. Sunscreens – will add minor protection from the sun,
but don’t assume it does for your
hair what it does for your
skin.
11. Polymers – almost all shampoos and conditioners have this and
it’s a nice coating that
adds volume, strength to hair. But it attracts
moisture in the air and makes hair feel kind of
sticky. It shouldn’t be
a large component of the ingredients in the shampoo.
Things that do not
help in a conditioning shampoo:
1. Eggs contain a protein that hair CANNOT
absorb and adds no value to a product other
than as a marketing
tool
2. Carrot oil – used for aroma and color, not for hair health.
3.
Aloe – aids healing in burns but is only effective in living skin, not
hair.
4. Vitamin E – this is a nutrient. Your hair doesn’t eat.
5. Malt –
appears mostly in men’s shampoos but isn’t the most effective protein
option.
6. Vitamin – only B5 helps because it contains panthenol.
7. Birch
and all other herbs – birch is good when dabbed directly on an oily scalp for
its
astringent properties. All herbs effectiveness are totally lost
when mixed in a shampoo.
8. Honey – does nothing to hair and is totally water
soluble, so it gets rinsed out.
9. Jojoba – yes, it’s good while it’s on your
hair, but it’s also water soluble, so it gets rinsed
out..

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